Needlecraft SuperiorCrafts, sewing, knitting, crochet, clothdolls, embroidery, dressmaking

CROCHETED MOTIFS - How to Techniques!

For the young at heart, or a trendy miss, you maybe looking for old
magazines for vintage patterns, (which are publications that are 30 years
old or more,they are usually considered to be vintage),for some idea’s for
a different approach to fashion ideas for the 21st century.
I will be adding Vintage patterns to this Needlecraft Superior blog which
will include techniques and projects not available in all modern books.

Here is a idea for a change to a favourite top, or brightening up the
appearance of last seasons outfits.
Crocheting with a metallic yarn or a bright coloured knitting cotton, these
motifs which you can attach to your tops, skirt or shorts,or even crochet a
few motifs in a metallic thread and make a necklace,leg or arm bracelet or
just for brightening up a christmas gift, as they do not take long to crochet.

Motifs are composed of stitches worked around a centre ring.
You can also use them joined together in a patchwork.
The centre ring of a motif is usually a chain joined with a slip-stitch.
The first row, called a round, is worked into this circle, with stitches
taken over the chain, and adjusted to fit evenly around.
Each subsequent round is worked from the right side and closed with a
slip-stitch at the starting point, The last round is fasten off.

Crocheted Motifs.
Chrysanthemum.
1st image:(this one is a little hard if you are a beginner).

To form the centre, chain 4 and join in a ring with a slip-stitch.
Round 1: 13 double crochet in the ring, slip stitch to 1st double crochet,
at beginning of round to close. Fasten off.

Round 2: using a second colour,make 1 petal into the front strand of each
double crochet of round 1, {like this}
( 1 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 double crochet in 2nd chain from hook,
1 half treble crochet in each of the next 2 chain, 1 double crochet
in the next chain, 1 double crochet at beginning),
total of 13 petals.

Round 3: make 1 petal into the back strand of each double crochet of round 1
{like this}(1 slip stitch, chain 6, 1 double crochet in 5 of these 6 chains).
Total of 13 petals, Fasten off.

(In my last blog I explained how to do a double and treble crochet).
Now Here is how to do a half treble (htc):
yarn around hook and insert hook in 3rd chain from hook, catch yarn and draw
a loop through the chain (3 loops on hook).
yarn around hook and draw the loop through 3 loops to complete stitch.

Daisy Motif.
Middle image below.
Chain 6 and join in a ring with a slip stitch.
Round 1: 14 double crochet in ring, slip stitch into 1st double crochet at
beginning of round to close.

Round 2: (into front strand of each double crochet work 1 double crochet,
chain 6, 1 double crochet) 14 times, slip stitch to 1st double crochet to close.

Round 3: ( into back strand of each double crochet in round 1 work 1 double
crochet, chain 8, 1 doble crochet ) 14 times.
Slip stitch to the 1st double crochet. Fasten off.

Posy Motif.
3rd image below.
Chain 6 and join into a ring with a slip stitch.
Round 1: Chain 2, 23 double crochet in the ring, slip stitch in 2nd chain
at beginning or middle to close.

Round2: chain 4, 1 half treble crochet in same chain as last slip stitch,
chain 1 (skip 2 stitches, 1 treble crochet in next stitch, chain 2, 1 treble
chain 1) 7 times, slip stitch in 2nd-chain space at the beginning of round
to close.

Round 3: chain 2,(1 half treble, chain 2, 2 half treble) in last chain at
beginning of round 2, 1 double crochetin 1st chain space,
*2 half trebles, chain 2, 2 half trebles) in 2nd chain space, 1 double crochet
in the 1st chain space* repeat from * to* 6 times, slip stitch in 2nd chain
at beginning of round.

Round 4: *(3 treble crochet, chain 1, 3 Treble crochet) in the 2 chain space,
1 double crochet on each side of the double crochet*, repeat from * to *
8 times, Fasten off.

Crochet Motifs

CROCHET MESH STITCHES - How to Techniques!
Needlecraft Superior Blog.

In Checking out the trendy catalogs and boutiques, I have found that
crochet is making a very fashionable return.
But even with all that popularity, there’s no need to pay designer prices
for trendy crocheted clothes.
For wonderful wearables for christmas holiday’s or a special gift for
family or friends, why not make your own?
It is not hard to make gifts by crocheting them yourselve.

Some idea’s of gift’s made with crochet mesh stitches, fancy overskirts,
sweaters, bracelets, belts, chokers, halter tops, bolero’s, hats, bags and
totes, you do not even to have to buy the pattern, follow the easy to
crochet stitches in the images below, showing you how to decrease and
increase at the beginning and end of the row.
Using beatuiful soft mohair yarn, or even a silk ribbon tank top or poncho
for those cooler daylight-saving evenings.

Crochet Meshes design’s consist of chain stitches, double crochet or treble
crochet stitches combined in such a way that they form open spaces which
make a cool but refreshing fashionable garment, which is right up with
the lastest trends of creations.

What is a Chain stitch?
It is used to form the first row (the foundation)
it should be formed fairly loosely, so that the hook can enter each chain
easily, and the edge of the work will not draw.
To start making a chain stitch, make a slip knot about 15 cm from the yarn
end; insert the hook, holding both ends of the yarn, pull one end of the
yarn through with the crochet hook forming a loop but not too tight,then
holding the yarn around the fingers insert the hook through the loop and
pull the thread through the loop again forming another loop, continue this
way,forming chains until you have the required number of chain stitches for
the foundation, (remembering to keep the yarn fairly loose as working it).

How to do Double Crochet!
First start with chain Stitches required for pattern,( the foundation)
then insert the hook in 2nd chain from hook, catch yarn and draw the loop
through the chain (2 loops on the hook), yarn round hook and draw through
2 loops to complete the stitch. Makes one double crochet, (known as dc in
crochet pattern) in each chain stitch across the row, after the last
stitch chain 1 and turn; insert in 1 st stitch to start another row.
This makes a nice firm flat fabric, often used to finish edges of other
stitch patterns, and sometimes to join two finished sections.

How to do a Treble Crochet!
Twice as tall as double crochet and less compact; forms the basis of many
pattern stitches.
First start with chain Stitches required for pattern,then, catch yarn
around the hook and insert hook in 4th chain from hook, catch yarn
and draw a loop through the chain (3 loops on hook), yarn round hook
and draw through 2 loops, yarn round hook and draw through last 2 loops
to complete stitch.Makes 1 Treble crochet,(known as tc in crochet patterns).
make 1 treble crochet stitch in each chain aross the row, after the last
stitch, chain 3 and turn, yarn around hook, insert hook in 2nd stitch
to start another row.

CROCHET MESH STITCHES.
Diamond mesh is a flexible stitch that is especially suitable for those
trendy fashionable overshirts.
Images below shows you how the Crochet Mesh Patterns look.

How to Technique for DIAMOND MESH.
Top lefthand image.
To start do Multiples of 4 ch - plus 2 extra at the end for the start of
garment to required lenght of article you are going to make, then start;

Row 1: sk (skip or miss) 1 chain, 1 dc (double crochet) in next chain
* chain 5, skip 3 chain, 1 double crochet in next chain*.
repeat from *-* then 1 double crochet. chain 5,turn

Row 2: * 1 dc in next chain space, chain 5*. repeat *-* to the end, turn

Repeat row 2 as many times as reqired to your required lenght or shaping.

SHAPING FOR MESH PATTERNS.
If wanting to decrease or increase work as in shaping mesh ground image on
right-hand (1, 2, 3,) image.

Image 1. To decrease a space at the end of a row.
Do not work the the last space ( the one formed by the turning chain).
instead chain 4 (for mesh ground 1) or chain 5 (for mesh ground 2) and turn:
work 1 treble crochet in the next treble crochet.
The resulting space will be triangular rather than square.

Image 2. To decrease a space at the beginning of a row.
do not make the usual turning chain: instead chain 1 and turn make 1 slip
stitch up to the next treble crochet. then 1 slip stitch in the treble
crochet, then 1 slip stitch in the treble stitch; chain 4
(for mesh ground 2) and continue with the mesh pattern starting with
1 treble crochet in the next stitch.
USE THIS METHOD ONLY WHEN DECREASES MUST BE PAIRED ON EITHER SIDE OF THE WORK.

Image 3. To increase a space at the beginning of the row.
do not make the usual turning chain; instead chain 5 (for mesh ground 1) or
chain 7 (for mess ground 2) and turn;
work 1 treble crochet in first stitch of the previous row.

How to Technique for HONEYCOMB MESH.
Middle left-hand side image
To start do Multiples of 4 ch - plus 10 extra at the end for the start of
garment to required lenght of article you are going to make, then start;

Row 1: sk (skip or miss) 9 chain, *1 tr (treble crochet) in next chain
ch 4, sk 3 ch,*. repeat from *-*  to the last stitch then 1 tr. ch 8,turn

Row 2: * 1 tr in the 4-ch space, chain 4*. repeat *-* to the last stitch,
1 tr, ch 8,turn

Repeat row 2 as many times as reqired to your required lenght.

How to Technique for DIAMOND PICOT MESH.
Last Left-hand side image
Multiples of 7 ch - plus 2 extra at the end for the start of
garment to required lenght of article you are going to make, then start;
Row 1: skip 1 chain, 1 double crochet in next ch,*chain 2, 1 picot made
like this:
(ch 5, sl st in 1st of these 5 ch), chain 3,1 picot, ch 2, skip 6 chain,
1 dc*, repeat from *-*  to the last stitch then,turn

Row 2: 1 picot, chain 3, 1 picot, chain 2, 1 double crochet in chain
space between picots of previous row, *chain 2. 1 picot, chain 3, 1 picot,
chain 2. 1 double crochet in the chain space*.
repeat *-* to the last stitch, chain 2, turn

Repeat row 2 as many times as reqired to your required lenght.

How to Technique for SOLOMONS KNOT MESH PATTERN.
Top Centre image.
These are more complicated mesh patterns,
leave a comment below if you need more information and I will reply.

Solomon’s Knot:
Lenghted chains form an open mesh that is similar in appearence to
netting. The lenghtened loop can be adjusted as desired.
15 mm is the typical recommendation for a loop lenght in many instructions,
any lenght is suitable as long as it is consistent.
General rule is to make a longer loop for a thick yarn, a shorter loop for
a fine one.
multiple of 4 chains plus 2
Row 1: skip 1 chain, 1 double crochet. 1 single knot - Made like this:
(lenghten loop to desired lenght “say 15 mm”, draw up a loop, take hook
across front of lenghten loop and insert it under yarn of chain just completed,
work 1 double crochet), make another knot, * skip 3 chain, 1 double crochet
in next chain, 1 double knot*. repeat from *-*  to the last stitch
1 single knot, turn (total of 3 single knots for turning).

Row 2: * 1 double crochet in centre of double knot in previous row,
1 double knot*. repeat from *-*  to the last stitch, 1 single knot. turn.
Work from Row 2.

How to Technique for TRESTLE STITCH Mesh Pattern.
Middle Centre image.

Multiples of 4 chain - plus 6 extra chains at the end, for the start of
garment to required lenght of article you are going to make, then start;

Row 1: skip 5 chain,*1 treble crochet into the next chain, chain 3,
skip 3 chain*.repeat from *-*  to the last stitch then 1 treble crochet,
chain 4, turn

Row 2: * 1 double crochet in 2nd chain of 3-chain group, chain 2, 1 treble
crochet in next treble crochet, chain 2*. 1 double crochet in turning
chain of previous row. chain 5, turn

Row 3: *1 treble crochet, chain 3*.  repeat from *-*  to the last stitch,
1 treble crochet in turning chain of previous row, chain 4, turn.
Repeat from row 2.

How to Technique for OPEN CHECKS.
Bottom Centre image.

Multiples of 6 chain - plus 3 extra chains at the end, for the start of
garment to required lenght of article you are going to make, then start;

Row 1: Skip 3 chains, 1 treble crochet in each of next 2 chains,
*chain 3, skip 3 chains, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 3 chains*,
chain 3, skip 3 chain, 1 treble crochet in last chain, chain 3, turn

Row 2: 2 treble crochet in 1st 3-chain space,
* chain 3, 3 treble crochet in next 3-chain space*. repeat from *-*
to the last stitch, chain 3, 1 treble crochet in top of turning chain,
chain 3,turn
Repeat from Row 2.until you have the desired lenght required, remembering
the increasing or decreasing above.

Crochet Mesh Stitches

Gerber Technology Versatile Cutter - Special on Needlecraft Superior!

This Blog is going to be a little different to the other one’s I have submitted to
Needlecraft Superior as I will take you down a path of how the garments you buy
in a fashion parlour start from the beginning.
In the old days they were laid up by hand on long tables,by hand following a order
by material type and colour, hopefully the person laying it up used the right tension
and did not stretch it,the garment would end up the right size, then cut by a knife
going up and down,through the layers of fabric by hand, everything was okay, as long as the
person that graded the pattern and draw it up on paper did not make a mistake.
Also that the person cutting the lay’s cut on the right lines correctly.
Hopefully when the machinest sewed it up, all piece of the garment fitted together.

I worked for 30 years in the Rag Trade starting as a machines and working my way
through pattern grading by hand not a plotter, to a cutter.
Since the factories closing down one by one as it became uneconomical to
operate like this, they all closed down or went offshore.

Early in the 1990 things really started to change, all the imports of cheap clothes,
factories look for new way’s to make a profit and cope with all the rising wages.

Plotting Computer machines that draw the patterns on paper, and had a better
accuracy and less mistakes, but still there was need for more if the rag trade was
going to survive. Factories where closing down everywhere.
So Classic Fashions invested in this great gerber cutter imported from the USA.

Classic Fashions in New Plymouth New Zealand was a ladies outer garment clothing firm
purchased a GERBER CUTTER - Versatile Cutter Designed for Made-to-Order Manufacturing
Some of the features were that it cut up to 8 mm (0.3 in.) of compressed material.
it stored cutting setup files for quick retrieval to accelerate future cut jobs on a computer.
it had graphical operator interface and easy-to-use on-machine control panel on a computer
simplifies operator training and use, which I learned it was the start of me being a computer
addict.
Here is a photo of it and I was also operating it, it travels across the floor on tracks
like a train and moves from one table to the next.
Cuts by a laser beam, all kinds of fabric from the most delicates to the hardest of vinyl.

We had long tables which were set up with vacuum under them so when the layers of fabric were finished
laying up by hand, they were moved down the table to the Gerber cutter to be cut.
The Gerber cutter was operated by vacuum, that plastic was laid on top and the vacuum sucked
the material down under the plastic and held it very firm.
There would be a person at the head of the gerber cutter as the laid was being cut and take of
the peices of the garments as they where cut, bundle them up and of to the markers to sort out
and hang the piece on hangers, which would be ready for the machinest to sew up.

So this Gerber solutions for apparel and retail dramatically improve turn around times and
significantly reduce material waste and labour costs but the factories still when on closing
down until 16 march 2002 Classic Manufacturing, one of the last clothing factories to close down
in Taranaki NZ closed down..
If you would like to see more on this wonderful machine that cut down staff members,operating
hand cutters, and training of humans for hands cutters take a look at this website.

Compiled By Elsie Hagley, Urenui, New Zealand

http://www.gerbertechnology.com/default.asp?contentID=12

Gerber Cutter

EMBROIDERY STITCHES!
How To Techniques on Needlecraft Superior Blog

Embroidery Couching.

Embroidery Couching stitches are particularly useful for outlining an area or
for giving more weight to a single line.
In embroidery, couching and laid work are techniques in which yarn or other
materials are laid across the surface of the ground fabric and fastened in
place with small stitches of the same or a different yarn.
Usually, there are two working threads, the laid thread (which can be one or
more strands) and the couching thread.
The couching thread is stitched over the laid thread to attach it to the fabric.
The effect of couching varies with the specific stitch and the numbers of laid
threads that are used.
The more threads you laid down, the heavier the outline.
The couching threads may be either the same color as the laid threads or a
contrasting color.
In addition to outlining, whole areas can be filled in with couching.
To create textural variety, lay the threads so they run in different directions.

Two distinct types of couching are Bukhara and Rumanian. Both employ only one
lenght of thread for both the laying and the couching instead of separate lenghts
of thread for each.
To create more unusual effects couch over finished canvas work and applique
or try couching with metallic thread.

STRAIGHT COUCHING:
Straight couching can be used to outline a design.
To start bring the desired number of laid threads through the material, you are
working on, use left thumb to hold and guide laid threads, as you couch over them.
Bring working thread up one side of the laid thread and over directly to the
other side of laid thread with the needle coming out on the rightside of the fabric
at the distance you require the next stitch, (say 2 centimeters, or 1/2 inch),
along the line, (as top orange coloured image below straight satin couching).
Point 3 is now point 1 for the next stitch.
Continue until laid thread are completely anchored: keep distance between stitches
consistent. Bring ends of laid threads to back of work and secure.

HOW TO FILL IN A AREA:
The middle three images in the picture below shows:
How to fill in a area, work first line as in straight couching.
At end of line, turn trailing laid threads  to the right.
Take a horizontal stitch at turning point.
Turn work upside down and couch second row of threads from right to left, placing
stitches between stitches of preceeding row.
At the end of the second row, turn trailing laid threads to the right and again
take a horizontal stitch.
Turn work upright and work third row alternating vertical stitches with those in
the row above.
Continue this way until area is covered,
(as in the picture of the middle images below).

BUKHARA COUCHING:
(Bottom four images below).
Bukhara Couching is used to fill an area with a woven effect.
Both the laid and couching threads are the same lenght of thread.
The thread is laid from left to right and couched from right to left.
Bring thread up at 1. insert at 2. and exit at 3 above laid thread.
(as first image shows) Insert needle at 4 over laid thread and slightly ahead of 3.
Come up at 5 (inline with 3). Continue slanted stitches to end of laid thread.
Bring needle out at 1 to begin next row.(as image 3 shows below bottom).
Place started stitch in each row between those in previous row.
(looking like image 4 as you proceed to fill in your pattern).

For Variants in Couching
Wikipedia have a very nice article on couching, also a Stitch Gallery.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Couching

Embroidery Couching

EMBROIDERY CHAIN STITCHES!

As the name implies the links are joined by a chain.
Each stitch has it’s own special configuration and particular use, but together
they form one of the most indispensable of the stitch groups.
Chain stitches are looped, the working thread is always carried under the needle
point before the stitch is pulled tight.
For the most part, these stitches are worked vertically and are used for outlining
and decorative borders.
If worked in rows to fill in a area, each row is usually stitched in the same
direction to give a texture resembling fabric.

To Make a Basic Chain Stitch.

Chain stitches are one of the most popular embroidery stitches for outlining or
if worked in close rows for filling an area.
When doing the chain stitch, the needle is at point 1, you insert the needle back
into the same hole at point 1, and bring it out at point 2, carrying the thread
under the needle point, then pull it through point 2 is now point 1 of the next
stitch.
Work all stitches the same way, always inserting needle into the hole made by
emerging thread. To end the row, take a small stitch over the last chain loop
to hold it down.

LACED CHAIN STITCH!
Top Image Below.
Laced chain stitch resembles a chain with two link sizes.
To achieve this double link effect,detached chain stitches are laced with a
contrasting thread.
This makes a pretty border or it can be used as a outline stitch.

Here is how to do it.
First work a row of detached chain stitches,( as shown in first picture ).
Using a blunt needle and contrasting thread, bring needle up under last chain.
Lace thread back and forth under each chain,( as second picture ) do not
catch the fabric.
Start again at bottom and lace in opposite direction, keeping loops even on
both sides of the detached chain stitches, ( as third picture ).

ZIGZAG CHAIN STITCH!
Middle Image Below.
Zigzag chain stitch is worked with the chains positioned at alternating angles
to give a decorative zigzag effect.
Work first stitch exactly like a basic chain stitch, angling it,(as shown in
first picture ), between double lines.
The hole from which the thread emerges becomes point 1 for the next stitch.
Insert needle at 2, piercing loop end to anchor it, and exit at 3 carry the
thread under needle point, then pull through,( as second picture in image below).
Continue sequence, ( as third picture ) always piercing loop end and keeping
angle of stitches consistent.
To end, take small stitch over last chain loop.

TWISTED CHAIN STITCH!
Bottom Image Below.
Twisted chain stitch makes an unusal textured outline.
To work, bring needle out at point 1, insert needle at point 2, which is slightly
lower and to the left of point 1, then exit at 3, which is in line with point 1,
(as shown in picture 1), carry thread under point of needle, then pull through.
Work the next stitch in the same way.
Note: point 3 of previous stitch is point 1 of new stitch..
Complete row of chains. To end, take a small stitch over the last loop to
hold it down.

Needlecraft Superior Cross Stitch Embroidery!
CROSS-STITCH EMBROIDERY.

Cross stitch is a traditional type of embroidery adaptable to either
simple or intricate designs.
Cross stitch designs are often worked exclusively in basic cross stitch,
can also be worked on almost any fabric suitable for embroidery.
The even-weaves (as shown in my last blog on weaves),types are especially
good because their even weaves help guide the stitches.
Gingham is popular for cross stitch  for a similar reason - its squares
form a natural grid.

Nearly 50 years ago when I got married all of my table cloths where
cross stitch on gingham.
I think their was more conversation from visitors, when we
where having a cuppa, about cross stitch and how it was done, than a lot
of other things, in general life gossip.
A little different these day’s as the homemade table cloths are seldom
made or used.

Stranded embroidery cotton is the usual choice for working cross stitch,
but other embroidery threads can be used. Just be sure the thread you
select is compatible with the weight of your fabric.

Choose a needle according to your fabric: a tapestry needle for a even weave,
to slip between threads; for other fabrics, a sharp-pointed needle (crewel
or chenille) to pierce the fabric.
To keep stitch tension even, it is best to use an embroidery hoop of frame.

WORKING CROSS STITCH.

Cross stitch can be formed in two ways. It can be worked in rows of even,
slanted stitches with one arm of the crosses laid down in one run, the
other in a second, return run.
Cross stitches can also be worked one at a time.
(as illustrated in the image below).
Work cross stitches in a row when they are adjacent in a design.
When they are scattered, it is best to work them singly; this way no long
threads will be trailed on the wrong side.
With either stitching method, make sure that the top thread all lie in the
same direction.
This is important to the even, neat look that is characteristic
of cross stitch embroidery.

CROSS STITCH ON GINGHAM.

Gingham is a highly popular fabric for cross stitch because of its natural
grid. One cross is worked within each square, which keep stitches uniform.
Any charted design that requires a fabric with a natural grid can be worked
on gingham, but some designs are particularly effective on this fabric.
The three tones of gingham (dark, medium and white) can be used to advantage
( see the bottom three in the image below).
No 1. Crosses worked on the dark squares enhance the contrast between whites
and darks.
No 2. Crosses worked on the white squares give a more monochromatic look to
the gingham.
No 3. Crosses on both dark and medium squares make shape more solid, white
more emphatic.

Top left-hand corner of image below is how to work a sample motif : Individual
flowers,are stitched separately, work outline as a row (in two Journeys).

2nd mofit below it, is to fill in the centre petals, working one petal at a
time, again as a row (as shown).

Work connecting blocks and borders stitches as rows.
Stitch Triangle crosses one at a time.

All put together you can have a lovely finished border that is ideal for any
decorative border, (as the top right-hand image looks).

Gingham comes in many colours, and in many checks sizes from about two to
twenty five millmetres. Since the check size determines the size of each
cross, the larger the squares, the larger the design.

Cross Stitch Gingham